IT’S hard to know what to expect coming to an ancient city of such legendary status, the name of which is almost history itself - Damascus. After a reasonably smooth passage through Syrian immigration, we are driven through some run-down or half-finished suburbs before arriving at the gates of the Old City, where (excavation records tell us) humans have lived since 8,000 BC. As night falls, our jeep squeezes down the narrow lanes of old Damascus. The streets are alive with little shops and cafes. Young Syrians gather for a smoke, or a tiny cup of sweet black coffee. Most of the young women wear jeans and let their shiny hair flow freely. A few are covered completely. One is reminded that this is a ‘secular’ city. One quarter of the population is Christian. Inching through the crowds, we pass a Turkish bath where you can see the men gathering for an evening’s sweat. Across the road is our hotel, one of the walled secrets of Damascus. It feels like this is a unique place on earth.

Beit Al Mamlouka

It’s been said often that many treasures exist behind the walls of the Old City. How true in the case of Beit Al-Mamlouka, an 18th-century house perfectly restored by the independent owners. Stepping into the marbled courtyard (top) feels like passing through a magic door to the distant past. Sitting beneath the citrus and orange trees, it is possible to wash away the twenty first century completely from your mind.

We are lucky enough to stay in the Suleman the Magnificent suite (above), just off the main courtyard. The room is dominated by the 200-year-old Christian fresco on the ceiling, which has survived in remarkably good condition after all this time. With its own marble fountain, finely carved wooden shutters and period furniture, one can live for a few days like a prosperous 18th century Arab merchant. Amazing.

Ummayad Mosque

The Grand Mosque of Damascus is of huge importance for religious, architectural and historical reasons. Perhaps this can be summed up in one fact: the tomb of Saladin lies here. Visitors of all faiths are welcome here, after removing footwear. The great courtyard (above) is a peaceful place to spend an hour or so, despite the great number of people walking around and children sliding playfully along the immaculate marble floor.  Also well worth a visit is the Azm Palace, built in 1750 as the residence of the Ottoman Pasha (Prince) of Damascus. The intricate artwork in the residential suites on show to the public is unique and absorbing.

Palmiyra

A somewhat crazy three-hour drive from Damascus is the ancient city of Palmyra, now in the process of being painstakingly excavated and restored to (pieces of) its former glory. Although the journey is not pleasant, it’s well worth making to see some of the best early Roman ruins in the world. Archeologists are gradually uncovering the incredible tombs that the wealthy merchants of Palmyra built for their families. It’s possible to view a handful of them. The enormous Temple of Ba’al, a local Pagan God, is probably the most famous part of Palymra; but I was astonished by the small amphitheatre, which has been recovered from the sand virtually intact.

Souk City

The souks of Damascus are, of course, world famous, and a ‘must-see’ for visitors to the city. There is so much to take in here, and I would advise anyone to buy a big bag of the delicious local confectionary - at the very least. Also, spend at least an hour watching the world go buy in one of the large cafes where local residents gather to smoke and set the world to rights. The thick, soupy substance which is called coffee in Damascus is strangely irresistible. You can also spend hours walking around areas like the covered souk of Medhat Pasha (above), breathing the spice-filled air of this historic city. When you have finished shopping, make sure to take a trip down the Street Called Straight to the tiny Chapel of Saint Ananias, where St Paul is said to have been baptised. When we arrive, a few local worshippers are preying in front of the altar, their eyes shut tight in search of the Christian God. Given our current problems in the world, it lifts the soul to see the two great religions living so comfortably side by side.

The Verdict

My prediction is that Damascus could become one of the most fashionable destinations for the world traveller within the next decade. The shifting plates of international politics seem to be moving Syria to become more open, unique boutique hotels like Beit Al-Mamlouka are springing up, and the people of Damascus extend a warm Arabic welcome to visitors everywhere. If you are planning a trip, October and November are the perfect months - warm, bright days and mild evenings, ideal for strolling around the ancient city.

How we got there

We flew on Austrian Airlines from London Heathrow to Damascus via Vienna.

Our ratings for Damascus

1-5 stars

Beit Al-Mamlouka Hotel

*****

Austrian Airlines

****                                                                                                            

Location

*****

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